Surface Pro 3 Notes

Surface Pros are a pain to support (more so than a regular laptop).


 It’s a good idea to update the driver package, if you see any type of hardware issues in the system event log. When you check the Microsoft support site for newer drivers, you will need to know the current build version of your Windows 10 OS. The easiest way to determine the version, is to run the “Winver” command. The version of the driver package you down load should match your OS build version. Also, make sure you have a system image, so that you at least have the option to roll back.

If you update the feature or build to the next version and it completes successfully. I recommend checking to  see if a new driver / FW package is available for that new release. Example Windows 10 OS build 1607.14393.1944 would use the update package for with 1607.14393 in the name (the package number is 17_037_02). You’re not just downloading the newest Microsoft bundle off the web site, the numbers have to match.

Also its a good idea to run SFC /scannow after you have installed a new feature release, to verify there hasn’t been some form of system corruption. Hopefully there won’t be any errors, but if there are errors, most likely SFC will be able to fix them for you. However, if they cannot be fixed with SFC, it can take a lot of work to correct with other utilities and a copy of the Windows install files.

Feature release downloads fail from time to time, especially in the 1511 days (new updates seemed to be pushed every week or two). So if you’re on something newer (i.e. 1607) that is still under support, I wouldn’t necessarily rush to be on 1703 or 1709. Also, don’t forget to do the drive cleanup and get rid of the BT~ and Windows.old folders after a feature update, they can take up 20 GB or more of space.

I don’t know that Microsoft can continue feature updates for free forever with Windows 10. More than likely, they will continue to come out with new versions of Orange Crush, that we really don’t want on Windows 10 Pro for business. Unfortunately, unless your rolling out a large scale scripted deployments of Microsoft 10 Pro in an enterprise, or are very good with PowerShell scripts, you won’t be able to avoid frequent Orange Crush or Xbox updates (I just turn those Apps off).

If you are concerned that a new feature or driver may cause a problem (not just for Surface Pro’s, but any workstation as well). These updates can be excluded if you have Windows 10 Pro, by using a built in tool – gpedit. On my systems, I delay new features, and turn off driver updates, see my “Windows 10 Patching” blog, to find out how.

Tamron 24-70 f2.8 G2

Tamron G1 vs G2 Comparison

I had a owned a Tamron 24-70 f2.8 G1 lens for two years and just traded it in on a G2 version. This post will focus on some of differences between the two lenses, so it’s not intended to be a complete review of the Tamron 24-70 f2.8 G2. More of answering the question, is it a worthwhile update, that you should consider.

Both versions have basically the same optical formula, my G1 needed about +6 AF fine tune to obtain the best images at 70mm @ f2.8. The new G2, is at 0 AF fine tune in camera. I tweaked it just a little with the Tamron docking station, mainly because I wanted to try it out. You can set AF fine tuning at four focal lengths – 24, 35, 50  and 70mm, with three distances at each focal length. I added +3 at mid distance for the 70mm end only. Tamron lets you adjust how the VC works, you can set focus limits if you need to tweak the focusing performance. It also lets you update the firmware, but currently there is only version one.

The G2 version focuses at least 50% faster compared to the G1. Just slightly slower than the Nikon 24-70 version one (which I also owned), but fast enough for most action. When I first purchased the Tamron 24-70 G1, I tested it at home in low light at home using static objects with my D700, and I didn’t have an issue with hunting. I have not tested either version in extreme low light, but specific bodies and AF settings would probably have a big impact on low light performance.

Regarding bokeh, in looking at a background image I shot of a tomato plant on the patio. I wasn’t actually testing bokeh at the time, just wanted a closer subject to shoot. I don’t really see harsh onion rings, just a smooth out of focus area. If bokeh is important in what you photograph, you may want to rent a copy and perform additional testing, but I don’t think you will be disappointed.

On VC, I can say that it’s at least a stop better compared to the G1. At 70mm with the G1 version, I still needed to be at 1/30 sec. The new G2 can get pretty consistence 70mm results at 1/15 a second. At 50mm I am getting good results at 1/8 sec with VC on, so it’s comparable to the VR on most Nikon lenses. There is stabilization in the view finder, and this can be adjusted with the dock, to bias it more toward the view finder or the subject. It’s set in the middle by default, so both the subject and the view finder benefit equally.

Tamron @ 24mm, f5.6, ISO-200, D700
Tamron @58mm, f5.6, ISO 200, D700

Handling, filter size, length and weight are all about the same. So while it isn’t a small lens, it feels fine on a FX body with a grip like the D700 or D810. The zoom ring on the G1 was ok, but the G2 zoom ring is much smoother. Overall the build quality is better, and it has weather sealing. Plus you can use the dock with it, if you do need specific fine tuning, just keep in mind that dock tuning would need to take into account any other bodies. It’s a combination of all those small improvements that I believe make it worthwhile to upgrade to the G2 version.

However, if VR / VC and AF speed are not a big deal to you, the G1 version can be very good value at something like $600 used, if you don’t already own a copy. I compared both lenses on a D700 side by side in the store for about 30 minutes, and optically they are close. In fact, I hesitated for a couple of hours, before I returned to the store and traded in my old lens on the G2.

Windows Recovery

Windows System Images

Lets face it Windows workstations are patched a lot, and some times they have issues. It could be from a download, a Microsoft patch or a malicious web site. So if your PC has an issue you want to be in a position to recover it quickly. One of the easiest free methods is to use System Restores and System Images all built into Windows 7, 8 and 10.

Restore Points let you roll back to a previous system state. So if you are going to install a new application, you could create a restore point before the install, and then if the application does not work as expected, you can remove it and revert back to the previous state. What that does is remove any new registry entries that were created during the install and restore the original ones.

To create a restore point go to Control Panel, System & then look for System protection on the left side. That will get you to System Properties and allow you to turn on and configure restore points. Normally I just do this for the C:\ drive or the system partition. I don’t do that for my data drive. I use a custom script that will backup my data drive to another disk on a regular basis.

System Images are a complete copy of your system drive. If you designed your system with a separate data volume and keep the C:\ system drive relatively small, it will make for very quick recovery of your OS. If the OS has a virus, you can recover everything on C:\. But you have to do your home work, and you will need the items below:

  • Created a system recovery drive that you use to boot the PC
  • Have a System Image backup already saved on your data or external USB 3 drive
  • Keep your C:\ system partition small, and save all your files to a separate data drive

If you already have a separate data drive, then you are a head of the game. You can simply use that to save your system images. I also recommend having and using an external USB 3 drive to save the images to as well. Both the internal or external drive should be at least 1 TB in size, to save multiple images and data. If you don’t have a drive, go over to your nearest office supply store and purchase one. If you are not familiar with installing internal drives, then you can learn on line or contact me and I would be glad to help.

Next make sure you have created a recovery disk while your system is still healthy. You will need a USB 3 drive and then run the “create a recovery drive” utility already built into Windows. From the start menu or windows button just type “create a recovery drive” and the following menu will open allowing you to do that. Just be sure to use a thumb drive that at least 16 GB, may be 32 GB if you have a lot of applications on your system.

The recovery drive allows you to boot the system without a functional system partition, and run the recovery utilities. Those include restoring your system from a previously made image backup. There will be a few options, so the key is booting from the recovery disk and becoming familiar with the options before you really need them.

I won’t go through all the recovery options here, their are a fair number of discussions found through Google on how to do that. I just want to make sure your thinking ahead, and have all the pieces that you need to recover your system. If you don’t have a bunch of other data on the system drive, the operating system alone is typically 50 – 60 GB.

A USB 3 drive with the system image backup, that is restoring to a SSD partition can be done in 15 minutes or less. If you also have all your data on the system partition, you could be looking at a few hours or more. If the System drive is not SSD, plan on doubling or tripling the recovery time.

To create a system image just go to Control Panel, then select “Backup and Restore”. Keep in mind widows will let you perform a plan backup as well, but you can’t use that to recover your system, just the data on the volume backed up. Once your in Backup and Restore, look on the left hand side and select ” Create a System Image”. That will walk you through the steps of making an image of your OS..

If you ever have to do a restore, it will be a simple procedure to get the whole OS back. That includes your applications and email, along with any data on C:\. If you have an internal data drive D:\ or E:\, none of that data will be affected by the system restore going to C:\, which restores the OS.

That’s why this is really great, because if for any reason your system starts running bad,  its easy and fast to restore it back to its previous state. Why not just use a recovery point, well mainly because recovery points restores sometimes fail for different reasons (Antivirus software can cause a glitch with restore points). If your PC is hit with a virus that damages system files, it may not boot or work well enough to allow you to try a restore point.

But with a recovery USB thumb drive, no matter what the state the OS is in, you can boot to a recovery menu and then restore a system image. Also, if you want to upgrade to a SSD drive, you can use a system image to do that. One caveat,  the SSD needs to be the same size or larger than the drive you are replacing. Even if it doesn’t have a lot of data on it, the utility looks at the total size (available space) of the volume. Some third party cloning tools let you work around that limitation, and will allow you to clone a larger HDD to smaller SSD.

Windows Utilities

System tools

In order to keep your system running well, I’ll list a few built in utilities that are worth using once in a while to keep your workstation healthy. Also use restore points and system images (see Windows Recovery), to minimize recovery time.

Windows 10 like Windows 7 has a built in Disk Cleanup tool. you can use it to empty the recycle Bin, clean up temp files. It can also clean up error and dump files if you select clean up system files.







If you are running a SSD, Windows 10 comes with an Optimize tool that helps to flush deleted files. Windows will automatically run this, which is similar to a defrag if it exceeds 4% or based on a schedule that you set. I generally choose weekly, to maintain optimum performance.

If you think that an update or software install may have caused an issue, you can run a tool called sfc /scannow which will scan all protected system files, and replace corrupted files with a cached copy that is located in a compressed folder at %WinDir%\System32\dllcache. You should run this from a command prompt with Administrator rights:

Always keep Windows Defender updated with the latest files and you system should run well. If it doesn’t please touch base and I’ll see if I can help with any issues you might have.

Windows 10 Must Do!

Windows 10 Pro Tip

Microsoft has taken a hard line with patching in Windows 10. You no longer have the ability to select some patches and omit other as easily as before in Windows 7. You do have the ability to perform a manual install with “Microsoft Update Catalog”, if you want to target a specific patch, while avoiding other bundled updates. But if you desire any control over patching here is what I suggest:

Run gpedit.msc and  go to: Administrative Templates \Windows Components \ Windows Update

Next select “Defer Windows Updates” and enable to select when you receive new Windows Features. This is important because, you want to be able to run and install the normal security updates without having to worry about prepping and doing a system backup like you would when a new feature release is available. Also you may need to test and plan when you really want the new feature release added, all of which take a good deal more time than regular patching.

Two other items that should be configured are the Automatic Updates themselves and if they should include drivers. Microsoft will sometimes bundle video and other drivers in with regular security patches. You may not see them unless you click on details, but you will get them, unless you specifically enable the setting below so they are not included. I personally don’t want Microsoft updating my video drivers, so I enable – “Do not include drivers with Windows Updates”.

Also, so you can decide when to install the normal security updates, and at times may choose to use Microsoft Update Catalog to manually target larger updates. Its best to choose option #2 to have that ability. Note that option #5 does not actually exist for Windows 10, and the maintenance schedule only applies with option #4.


Nikon D850

Nikon D850

On 08/24/2017 Nikon officially announce their new FX upgrade to the D810.

Welcome D850!

All the specs are now on Nikon’s web site:

The cool thing is that Nikon finally combined a lot of features into one camera, that historically they made you purchase at least two separate bodies to get. It’s lighter than a D700 and maybe just a few grams heavier than a D810. Nikon now seems to have higher frame rates sorted out with the both the D500 and now the D850 hitting 10 and 9 FPS respectively. Yes the D4 / D5 were up there too, but every other model was stuck in the 5-6 FPS range for about 5 years.

Good Stuff!

The D850 uses the same field-proven ultra-accurate AF system as the flagship D5. Nikon included the Advanced Multi-CAM 20K autofocus sensor module with TTL phase detection and fine-tuning, with 153 focus points, 99 cross-type sensors and a dedicated AF processor. The D850 has 45.7 MP performance and is capable of shooting in low light to -4 EV.

  • Nikon has included a new BSI CMOS sensor with no optical low pass filter. This sensor should be good for an additional stop at higher ISO’s over the D810 Body (with comparable noise).
  • Expeed 5 that processes 45.7 MP images with wider dynamic range, high-speed continuous shooting and full-frame 4K UHD movie recording. Data through put is obviously very high, along with a buffer that can handle 1.8x more 14 bit RAW and 3.6x more 12 bit RAW images before the buffer fills up.
  • Seamlessly switch between RAW sizes of Large (45.7 MP), Medium (25.6 MP), and Small (11.4 MP), whichever fits your need or workflow. The camera will average RAW data, but not compressed all the way into jpeg (8 bit). So you obtain smaller batch (12 bit) files in camera, but still retain most of the DR and the other benefits of the RAW format.
  • Focus peaking- Focus peaking works by detecting edges of highest contrast in your scene (and therefore most in focus) and highlighting them in a bright color.  The camera will use red, blue, yellow, or another color that allows photographers to recognize what is in focus and what isn’t. Also, when using manual lenses stopped down, it can also help show you how much of the scene is in focus at those apertures for checking your current depth of field.
  • Focus stacking- Is a digital image processing technique which combines multiple images taken at different focus distances to give a resulting image with a greater depth of field (DOF) than any of the individual source images.
For a more in depth look, see Nikon’s and Photographylife’s web sites:


No new gear to post about this month. So I decided that another topic might be appropriate and helpful in some way. Caught up in IT and other technical jobs, we are often pushed to “multi tasking” to get more done in a given amount of time. As humans, we absorb and process information from many senses, but when we act to do something, we compile the information necessary for the task at hand and focus on it for some period of time, then we refocus on something else. Whether its seconds, minutes or hours, we work on things one at a time.

Computers can multiplex all day long and be efficient at it, but humans tend to be less efficient and less focused when we multi task a lot. So we make more mistakes, it takes time to switch directions, remember where we were on that previous task and then start back up again. Some people can switch gears faster than others, but everyone accomplishes less, the more we try to multi task. I read that Einstein was a genius because he had the ability to focus on a specific problem until he found the solution, even if it took 15 years.

So exactly what is “Mindfulness” anyway, is it some form of meditation? Well not really, it can simply mean living in the moment and not dwelling on the past or being overly preoccupied about the future. One can choose to focus on their body, breathing, and heart rate to reduce stress. It can also be used to focus on other things, the outdoors for example.

Perhaps your taking a walk outside and maybe your stressed over work or your boss, so your thinking about all the stuff you have to do tomorrow. Instead, just absorb the sounds, smells and observe what is happening around you during the walk. Take a few minutes off auto pilot mode, by that I mean actually think about the walk itself. Turn off your cell phone and focus on your surroundings. The bird in tree, the butterflies and sound of your shoes on the ground.

Become more aware of your environment, what you can and cannot see. Animals and people that you might not otherwise notice. Look for patterns of symmetry, then look for irregularities. The goal being to just focus on being outdoors and the present experience, and what you’re feeling from all your senses. Notice what is going on around you, so that you are living and reacting to the moment. I think it’s a good way to relieve stress, and hopefully be a little safer and healthier.


ON1 Effects Review

Effects for LR now free!

ON1 is a very powerful tool that works with Lightroom v5 & v6, as well as Photoshop CS6 (note: The plug-ins do not work with CS5). Effects provides multiple presets and filters to help edit your photo.

The screen shots show the filter options that can be combined with presets. You can also add and edit with layers. I have not tried using layers in Effects, but I did try the mask brush, which works pretty much like the brush in LR to add or subtract an effect from a portion of the image. Below is a comparison shot with a little warming and texture, versus the original photo.

Each preset is grouped into categories, and each category has several different presets. The bottom screen shot shows the editing tool. On my link page I mention that by selecting “save as a smart photo”, you end up with a fully supported new PSD file, this is true for both LR and PS. There is also an option to stack the Effects edits with the original photo already in LR. You can turn that off, if you don’t like having stacked photos.

ON1 is a company located in Portland, Oregon – USA and the website is:


RRS Pocket Pod Review

The Mini Tripod – Pocket Pod

I had a RRS BH-25 mini ball head shown on top, and came across this Really Right Stuff Pocket Pod. It’s small about six inches high without the ball head, light and very well made. As with most of RSS products, the parts of various ball heads and clamps all inter change.

The leg positions can be adjusted independently, if the surface isn’t flat. It has a fully open, fully closed and two intermediate  leg positions. The Pod has a load rating of 15 lbs, more than the BH-25, which I believe is rated at 8 lbs. That still is pretty strong and lets you attach a normal DLSR camera body and a small to medium size lens.

The ball head (not included) has one dedicated vertical slot and can be adjusted for virtually any angle. So for table top work or self portraits, it does allow you to manipulate the camera / lens safely. I know that I often don’t carry a tripod, unless I know I am going to use one, as in I am shooting video or have something specific in mind.

The pocket Pod let’s you hedge your bets, because it takes no room in your bag, so your more likely to have it with you. Specifically for those times when you didn’t plan to use a tripod, but suddenly find yourself thinking, I wish I had a tripod!
Really Right Stuff

Material: 6061-T6 black anodized aluminum
Load Capacity: 15 lbs
Leg Positions: Vertical, plus 2 positions and also fully open
Thread: 1/4-20 with 3/8-16 adapter
Folded Lenght: 5.9″ (with stud)
Height Fully Spread: 1.5″ (without ball head)
Weight: 4.8 oz

Nikon 300F4E PF Review

Nikon 300mm F4E

My review is a brief summary of what works and what does not work for me related to VR. Nasim Mansurov from Photography Life has an extensive review, with excellent comparisons to other lenses completed in 2015 at the link below:

Unfortunately the VR issues reported two years ago in different reviews have not improved, no new firmware or design changes.  Nikon officially acknowledged the problem with only the D800 series bodies, and indicated that lenses with serial numbers below 205101 were affected (Nikon did issued a firmware fix for those lenses, but it was only slightly effective in reducing the problem).

It seems like Nikon really doesn’t want to face the reality that many other bodies are also impacted in that same shutter speed range. Hello – Nikon, it’s now 2017 and my recently purchased lens has a serial number that starts with 226XXX. I don’t own a D800 series body, so why would my D7200 and to a lesser extent on my older D700 body have the exact same VR issues with my new lens?

My bodies are only affected in a limited shutter speed range of 1/100 sec to about 1/160 of a sec. However down at 1/80 of a sec, VR works well, yielding sharp images. Also, images taken over 1/200 of a sec with VR on are very good. Note: Images with VR off at 1/160 sec are better than with VR turned on.

I happen to be shooting some test shots of a rabbit in my back yard one morning and my shutter speed fell to 1/160 of a second.  So a pretty normal use case in my opinion, not trying to find or doing anything unusual. Viewing shots in the camera at 100%, I could easily see the VR blur. Once I pushed the ISO to 3200, to get the shutter speed high enough (1/320 sec) to overcome the VR limitation, the images look nice (see the bunny below).

D7200 with 1.4TC, f5.6 @ ISO 3200, 1/320 sec

As an update I did a little more testing the next morning (after the bunny shots) and found a couple of interesting things at lower shutter speeds. Specifically with my system of the D7200 and 300 f4E, it seems that with VR on 1/160 of a second is the worst possible shutter speed for IQ. Going up slightly to 1/200 sec or faster solves the issue. Also, reducing shutter speed below 1/100 sec helps a good deal.

Again, a 300mm lens advertised with 4 stops of VR should do fine at 1/160 sec. In fact, VR actually works well at 1/60 – 1/80 sec, indicating the lens can provide 3 stops of stabilization from one over the 300mm focal length. In my case, I just need to avoid 1/100 sec to 1/160 of a second at all cost if VR is turned on. In the bad range it’s better to simply leaving VR turned off and the hand held images improve. So counter intuitively, if I cannot go to a higher ISO,  I should lower the shutter speed to obtain better images with good IQ at around 1/80 sec with VR on.

D7200 with 1.4TC, f5.6 @ ISO 800, 1/2500 sec

In the above photo, it had been partially foggy that morning, and at times the shutter speed would drop. However, it was a little brighter during the above photo, and the fact that I had left VR on, did not seem to affect IQ. Outside of the VR limitation, it’s a nice lens, close in sharpness to the 300 f2.8G. It focuses fast with 1.4TC, and is generally fun to shoot with. On the D7200 with a 1.4TC, you get a very good effective crop focal length of a 600mm lens at f5.6 that you can easily carry with one hand. Just learn the VR specific limitations with your bodies.